Amid a resurgence that makes it one of many largest and fastest-growing luxurious manufacturers, Dior nonetheless has little presence within the watch section – particularly mechanical watches – although the corporate has been providing watches since 1975. That is in distinction to its rivals equivalent to Chanel, Hermes and Louis Vuitton, all of which have invested important sources into producing critical timepieces, significantly in units and creative careers Gives.
Now Dior is starting to revamp its vary of mechanical watches and is returning to the Chiffre Rouge, a mannequin first launched in 2004, characterised by an asymmetrical case accented by a purple crown or pushers at 4. It is slimmer and nearly monochromatic Chiffre Rouge Black Extremely-Matte Chronograph has a black coated, 41mm case with Zenith El Primero motion.
First ideas
The Chiffre Rouge was a memorable design mannequin of the 2000s, though its mechanics had been hardly ever critical. The sooner chronograph fashions, for instance, had been based mostly on both ETA or quartz actions. Dior by no means made any actual effort to improve the mannequin, so it was largely perceived as a “trend watch”.
The redesign provides the Chiffre Rouge extra enchantment because it retains the unique, distinctive design however options considerably superior motion. Which means I might have abolished it the date window at 4 for a clear, geometrically patterned dial.
The primary function of the brand new chronograph is the Zenith El Primero, which was additionally one of many first steps of Dior’s sister model Louis Vuitton when it began making critical watches. The usage of the El Primero arguably exhibits the model’s want to develop its enchantment past trend to look at fanatics. It will likely be a protracted street to get there, however this can be a promising begin.
The Chiffre Rouge Chronograph prices $13,500, about 50% greater than that Zenith El Primero A384 on a strap and with the identical motion. Whereas the Chiffre Rouge case is extra uncommon and the Dior model extra worthwhile, the worth is just too excessive for what it’s. For instance, if the watch had been designed to be extra fascinating when it comes to the case materials, the worth could be extra reasonably priced.
An instance of the Chiffre Rouge chronograph from 2004. Picture – Sotheby’s
Modernized and revised
The newest model of the Chiffre Rouge chronograph is clearly derived from the unique, which featured a knurled crown and bracelet. This mannequin was powered by the ETA 2894 motion and remained within the catalog for a number of years, however by no means turned a signature mannequin and was finally withdrawn from the vary with out a lot fanfare.
The brand new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph is a very new watch in each design and building. The dial specifically has been fully redesigned. The matte black floor options the model’s signature corporal punishment Sample that may be discovered on a lot of his purses and equipment. The remainder of the dial is comparatively clear, with minimal textual content under 12 o’clock.
The chronograph registers are uncommon: the fixed seconds at 9 and minutes at three are outsized and recessed, whereas the hour counter at six is a “ghost” register decreased to a minimal. All the chronograph fingers are color-coded purple, as is the sting of the date window at 4. The numerals on the date disk are white, except for the “8” in purple, a nod to this Christian Dior’s favourite quantity.
The case has been redesigned, however continues to be very paying homage to the unique, particularly with the purple push button at 4. It’s 41mm extensive and is manufactured from sandblasted metal coated with black diamond-like carbon. The case is asymmetrical – the suitable flank is vertical – as is the bezel, which solely has a knurled edge between 9 and 12 o’clock.
The watch is powered by the CD.001, primarily a Zenith El Primero 400 that has been barely redesigned for Dior. The caliber is sort of an identical to the El Primero motion launched in 1969 and includes a high-frequency stability wheel with 36,000 vibrations per hour and a 48-hour energy reserve. The workmanship seems minimalist and useful, which is stunning contemplating Zenith ornaments its personal actions with modest beauty extras.
Key knowledge and value
Dior Cipher Rouge Black Ultramatte Chronograph
Ref. CD08461X1346
diameter: 41mm
Top: Not out there
materials: Chrome steel with black DLC coating
Crystal: sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Motion: CD.001 (Zenith El Primero)
Options: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph
Winding: Robotically
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
belt: Rubber strap with folding clasp
Restricted version: NO
Availability: In Dior boutiques, retailers and on Dior.com
Worth: $15,300
For extra info, go to Dior.com.
Again to prime.
