I really like developing with attention-grabbing matters for collector’s guides nowadays. Prior to now, we at WRB have created many normal guides for watch lovers, however I feel it is time we delve a bit deeper into thrilling matters that can assist our readers put collectively distinctive and galvanizing watch collections. Right this moment we’re looking at a variety of exhibition or caseback watches that even have a novel, attention-grabbing twist to their design.
Used
The exhibition case again supplies a pleasant view of the watch’s mechanical motion. They are often discovered each in very cheap watches and in luxurious watches from Haute Horlogerie. There actually is an enormous distinction within the kinds of watches that characteristic any such caseback, though they’re often extra appreciated on watches which have one thing stunning to point out off. Exhibition again panels may be discovered on sports activities watches, gown watches, chronographs, watches with hand-wound and automated actions, and so forth.
Disadvantages
Nonetheless, the exhibition casebook has a couple of disadvantages. For one factor, they’re clearly not as resistant to wreck as a full steel caseback. An exhibition case again is often fabricated from the identical materials because the watch crystal. In higher-end watches, that is sapphire crystal, which naturally shatters simply if dropped on a really laborious floor equivalent to a marble counter or tile flooring. One other drawback of a transparent caseback is that it will possibly scratch and obscure the view of the motion. Nonetheless, that is not possible because the again of the watch is all the time on the wrist.
One other typically ignored hazard of the exhibition caseback is its use in diving watches. Relying on the watch model and mannequin, the sapphire again might cut back water resistance because the opening across the window isn’t as safe as steel neither is it as robust to face up to deep water stress. Nonetheless, many high-end watch manufacturers that make viewing window diving watches have mitigated this by means of varied manufacturing applied sciences and particular designs, so it’s often not an issue as watch costs rise.
Patek Philippe 5370P split-seconds chronograph
Let’s begin our record with a heavy hitter. That is none apart from Patek’s 5370P, everybody’s dream watch. Patek likes to make use of viewing home windows on the again of lots of their watches, and in the event you’ve been round watches for some time, you in all probability have a fairly good concept why. After all, all clock actions aren’t solely manufactured in-house, but additionally handmade. This magnificent watch right here is supplied with the CHR 29-535 caliber, a split-seconds chronograph motion that’s seen in all its glory from the again of the watch.
The CHR 29-535 caliber is made up of a whole lot of components, lots of that are devoted to the split-seconds operate, also referred to as the ratrappant operate, which occurs to be one of the sophisticated capabilities of a watch. The motion encompasses a column wheel mechanism for the chronograph capabilities, and the split-seconds operate truly makes use of two particular column wheels. The way in which the motion is designed improves its accuracy and the smoothness of the split-seconds mechanism.
The motion additionally options some Patek Philippe patents, such because the horizontal disc clutch, which minimizes put on on the remainder of the motion.
Not solely does this watch showcase the motion, we’re together with it on our record as a result of the remainder of the watch was good. The case is fabricated from platinum with a case diameter of 41 mm and a top of 13.56 mm. Under no circumstances a small watch, however whenever you have a look at the craftsmanship you’ll instantly perceive the enchantment of this watch.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
As a Rolex collector myself, I’ve to incorporate one in every of these on this record, particularly since a couple of watches with exhibition home windows on the again have been launched final 12 months for the primary time. It was fairly a shock that they added a show again to the platinum Daytona, however the watch we current right here is the re-edition Perpetual 1908. That is Rolex’s gown watch, selecting up the place the earlier Cilini mannequin has stopped.
Rolex likes to make sensible watches and is aware of that their house owners will usually get pleasure from carrying them typically. Additionally they selected an automated motion for his or her 1908 gown watch, which I feel is nice. The motion developed by Rolex is the brand new automated caliber 7140, which is seen by means of the caseback. This new motion makes use of a Syloxi silicon hairspring, which is the primary time it has been utilized in a bigger watch just like the 1908. This new hairspring can be coupled with a Chronergy escapement. The remainder of the motion is a basic Rolex motion, a superlative chronometer with a 66-hour energy reserve.
We need to discuss in regards to the rear show window right here, however I even have to speak in regards to the dial of this watch, which is just distinctive and completely different for Rolex. The dial is completely designed with a mixture of utilized markers and Arabic numerals, a beautiful little utilized Rolex crown and emblem at 12 o’clock and a extremely beautiful little seconds counter at 6 o’clock. A small element that I’ve by no means seen on a Rolex is the hour hand with a big loop hand and the minute hand in a basic sword form. This watch has so much to supply and for my part is at present very underrated.
Nomos Zurich World Time
Nomos is understood for producing actually superb prime quality watches at fairly reasonably priced costs. The Zurich World Time is definitely on the high finish of their catalog and, along with its status, additionally has a cool world time complication.
Usually on world time watches you may see the names of cities engraved on the outer bezel, however Nomos likes to do it their very own approach whereas additionally permitting in patents. Within the Zurich clock introduced right here, the cities are engraved on a disc within the outer a part of the dial. That is as a result of distinctive design of the in-house automated caliber DUW 5201. This motion is a real marvel in itself and fortuitously it’s totally seen from the again of the watch. One of many standout options of this motion is neither a operate nor an element, however the easy indisputable fact that it has been constructed to be extremely skinny, similar to many different watches of their catalog. This permits Nomos to construct elegant and skinny instances to accommodate the motion.
The DUW 5201 caliber encompasses a proprietary escapement referred to as the Nomos Swing System. Different notable components of this motion embrace the stability spring, escape wheel and anchor – all designed and manufactured by Nomos, which is sort of an achievement for a comparatively new and small German watch model. The motion can be expertly hand-crafted and has some ornamental options you can see by means of the window on the caseback.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Skilled
Sure, the Omega Speedmaster is talked about too typically, it’s already such a well-liked watch that it has been extensively counterfeited, as we touched on in our Speedmaster Authentication article right here. When recognition is excessive, there may be often a great purpose for it. With the Speedmaster, that could not be more true.
The long-lasting Moonwatch not solely fills the hearts of watch lovers with its wealthy historical past, but additionally fascinates them with its breathtaking hand-wound caliber 3861 motion, seen by means of the sapphire crystal case again. This motion represents a major improvement of the earlier motion from 1861 and may now be admired. Nonetheless, word that there are two variants, one in every of which encompasses a stable steel case again. So select your watch fastidiously.
Not solely does this motion look unbelievable and complicated, it’s also fairly straightforward to take care of, which isn’t the case with all of the watches on our record. Alongside the Nomos Zurich World Time, the Moonwatch can be on the cheaper finish of the spectrum in the event you’re searching for a watch with a surprising motion.
The remainder of the watch is and was nearly good for a sporty chronograph Checked countless times from trade specialists. It actually provides the overall package deal {that a} watch collector desires: glorious workmanship, nice match, a powerful model identify, a captivating motion – and an extended, storied historical past.
Vacheron Constantin Historicals 222
The Historique 222 is a little bit of an outlier within the group, and I selected it not just for its show again, but additionally for its usually gorgeous stable gold design. That is an built-in wristwatch from one of the famend watchmakers on the earth. Whereas it isn’t usually thought of a part of the trinity of watch manufacturers, this might effectively be the case.
That is one other watch that could be a trendy interpretation of a 1977 Vacheron basic, designed by Jörg Hysek to rejoice Vacheron Constantin’s 222nd anniversary. As you’ll be able to in all probability inform, this can be a watch that competed with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Right this moment it’s fairly apparent that this watch has not gained the battle towards the coveted Royal Oak and Nautilus fashions, though the 222 has skilled a major revival since its relaunch. This can be partly as a result of the opposite two watches are not often accessible for buy in retail shops and a few watch collectors go for the subsequent neatest thing, which is the Historiques 222.
Watch politics apart, there isn’t any denying the gorgeous retro design of this watch, and as soon as once more we’re fortunate that the motion is seen by means of the rear show window. The motion we’re taking a look at right here is the Caliber 2455/2 and it’s a true murals. This watch seems to be a bit sportier than the primary watches on our record, however remains to be extremely refined.
The bezel has a form of guilloche look to it, which makes it very distinctive and enhances the built-in look from the Gérald Genta period. The dial additionally matches very effectively because it maintains the all-gold tone and makes use of pin markers positioned very symmetrically across the dial. The case, bezel and bracelet of the watch have a whole lot of design particulars and so I feel it was a good suggestion to maintain the dial comparatively easy, as you’ll be able to see right here.
Diploma
This sums up our record of outstanding watches with sapphire crystal backs. After all, it will be doable so as to add extra watches to this record, which I’ll do sooner or later. I feel the 5 watches above actually characterize the top of show again watches. All of them characteristic among the most unbelievable mechanical actions accessible in luxurious and haute horlogerie timepieces. It will be good to listen to from our readers within the feedback beneath: Is there a watch mannequin you want to see added to this record?
