As a brand, Grand Seiko doesn’t exactly skimp on annual new releases. Of course, many of the latest watches are dial variants, so we take extra notice when a completely new model debuts. The titanium SLGW003 “Birch Bark” was introduced earlier this year, and now we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces.
In April, Grand Seiko released the titanium SLGW003 “Birch Bark” alongside the 18-carat rose gold SLGW002. Thomas provided an overview of the models and was impressed. Today, we’ll focus on the titanium SLGW003 and shed more light on the watch’s finer details.
The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark”
The “Birch Bark” is officially part of the Evolution 9 lineup, and that makes sense because it isn’t a heritage piece. However, Grand Seiko does call out a historical model as the source of inspiration. The original Seiko 4520-8000 from 1968, the “45GS”, was the sub-brand’s first high-frequency watch. The relevance of that fact will become clearer shortly.
This is a 38.6mm by 45mm dress watch made from Grand Seiko’s proprietary Brilliant Titanium alloy. The material is highly corrosion and scratch-resistant with a brighter tone. The latter characteristic helps show off the effects of the brand’s famous Zaratsu polishing. Would-be wearers will be happy to hear that the watch is 9.95mm thick. That’s not bad, considering the box-type sapphire crystal. A 30-meter water resistance rating is par for the course for a dressy watch.
Looking closely at the gorgeous dial
Grand Seiko is well known for its exceptional textured dials. The “Birch Bark” looks exactly like its namesake, and while wood dials might sound a bit retro, this is clean and modern. The SLGW003 blends polished hands, applied indexes, and a logo with black-printed details. Fans will love the blued central seconds hand due to its gentle contrast. I admit, sometimes I find Grand Seiko dials a bit too textured and ornate. Somehow, in person, this one works far better.
A new movement with lovely finishing
I mentioned the vintage 45GS, and it’s significant. The “Birch Bark” ushers in the brand’s first new high-beat manual wind movement, the 9SA4, in over 50 years. That’s a big deal! It’s also a lovely movement to behold via the sapphire display case back. We can view the lovely surface finishing and anglage on the 47-jewel caliber. The 9SA4 features twin barrels, a dual impulse escapement, and a power reserve of 80 hours. Note the power reserve indicator that is thankfully on the back of the watch. The movements have been adjusted to six positions and are accurate within +5/-3 seconds per day.
Wearing the “Birch Bark”
There are many takeaways from wearing the SLGW003. Firstly, this is a supremely comfortable and light watch. It wears well due to its size and the downward-curving lugs. Due to cross-border customs reasons, we tried the watch on an embossed leather strap instead of the OEM alligator, but it’s a fine pairing with the titanium folding clasp.
Second, the case material is wonderful. I have a love/hate relationship with titanium. The love stems from its technical nature and lightweight properties. It tends to fall out of favor with me due to its darker hue and lack of actual warmth on the wrist. While Grand Seiko cannot solve my temperature concerns, they’ve developed an alloy that looks silvery. It shows off the polished and matte finishing well. Frankly, it’s probably the best titanium application I’ve seen for a watch.
I’ve also mentioned the dial, but it’s worth discussing again. I realize that many love watches like the “Snowflake” and are happy to accept the power reserve indicator on its dial. Then, there’s the “White Birch” with its date function at three o’clock. For my money, I’m always happiest with a sparse dial, and the “Birch Bark” delivers. Purely based on its looks, this watch could fit within my collection of dateless vintage Grand and King Seiko watches.
Finally, when a watch like this is on my wrist, I do think about the movement. It’s no secret that manual winding movements are my favorite, and this is a full-fat offering. Sexy finishing, advanced mechanicals, and a pleasing power reserve add up to a movement that can compete with the most expensive names from Switzerland.
Final thoughts
My last point regarding how this watch can compete with the best was said on purpose. The “Birch Bark” retails for €11,700, making it an expensive watch. Some have pointed out how Grand Seiko offers other manual winding pieces for far less, and while that’s true, I don’t think that’s the right way to look at the SLGW003. This piece strikes me as a flagship model due to its case material, more detailed finishing, and movement. If these attributes aren’t important to you, then Grand Seiko has you covered. However, if you’d like a watch that offers as much or more capability than its high-end Swiss counterparts, this is an intriguing option.
For more information on the SLGW003 “Birch Bark,” visit the official Grand Seiko website.
