H. Moser & Cie. is again firstly of the 12 months with one other streamliner. The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade includes a dial constructed from the mineral stone mined within the American state and a rose gold case, whereas retaining the opposite parts of the unique Streamliner Tourbillon with a 2022 Vantablack dial.
First ideas
Like most mineral stones, jade reveals a pure sample that varies from specimen to specimen. As a result of every bit of jade includes a sample that’s barely totally different from the subsequent, no two dials are precisely the identical. This distinctive variation is without doubt one of the major benefits of pure stone dials. Right here it’s mixed with rose gold, a mix that works significantly properly.
Since it’s similar in dimension to the sooner Streamliner Tourbillon, it additionally wears properly. The 40mm case sits properly on my 6.5-inch wrist and is neither too huge nor too small because of the lug-free case design.
In absolute phrases, it’s an costly watch with a retail value of CHF 109,000. Nonetheless, the worth proposition is definitely respectable. The comparable Vacheron Constantin Abroad Tourbillon in crimson gold, for instance, prices virtually twice as a lot. Whereas Moser is a distinct segment model in comparison with the established manufacturers, it provides watches which might be comparatively extra uncommon but comparable in general high quality.
The one drawback might be the version dimension, which at 100 items is appreciable for a watch of this sort. Moser has steadily elevated the variability and amount of its high-end Streamliner fashions, specifically valuable metallic, gemstone or stone dials, making them not fairly “very uncommon”.
The Jade Lobster
The brand new Streamliner Tourbillon includes a 5N rose gold case and bracelet with a robust copper tint. Completed with satin brushes and polished accents, the case flows seamlessly into the built-in “lobster” bracelet. The contrasts between the brushed and extremely polished surfaces add a complicated contact to the aesthetic.
As is usually the case with Moser, the central factor of the design is the logoless dial, a disc made from jade stone from Wyoming. The dial is minimalist in typical Moser model and solely has three utilized rose gold hour markers on the quarter hours. The rose gold hour and minute palms characteristic inserts made from “Globolight,” a polymer-ceramic composite enriched with Superluminova that, based on the model, glows at midnight for a very long time.
The dial is a wealthy olive inexperienced and has traces of white and black inclusions in its pure grain. It begins with a small block of jade that’s milled on a CNC machine with numerous liquid lubricant, creating a skinny disk of stone. The pane is then glued right into a metallic plate for stability and to forestall cracks.
The disc is then milled once more to acquire the spherical form required for the dial and to kind the opening for the tourbillon. The completed dial clean is then polished to take away imperfections and provides it a shiny end. Lastly, it’s faraway from the plate and a layer of varnish is utilized to the again of the jade earlier than being mounted on a brass dial base. The lacquer prevents the brass base from displaying by the translucent jade, whereas the bottom is critical for durability.
The jade dials are skinny sufficient to be translucent
Milling the dials
The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade options the HMC 804 caliber, the identical automated motion present in a number of Moser tourbillon fashions.
The tourbillon cage varieties a large “V” that may be a distinctive characteristic of the model’s tourbillons, and inside is Moser’s signature double hairspring. The manufacturing unit bridges are embellished with the brand-typical double decor Geneva coastprimarily strips of various widths.
Key information and value
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
Ref. 6804-0406
diameter: 40mm
Top: 12.1mm
materials: 18K 5N crimson gold
Crystal: sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m
Motion: HMC 804
Options: Hours, minutes and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Mechanically
Vitality reserve: 72 hours
belt: Built-in rose gold bracelet
Restricted version: 100 items
Availability: From January 2024 in H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers
Value: 109,000 CHF
Additional info will be discovered at h-moser.com.
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