I’ve six of them, so I’ve to say Seiko. I am a Zodiac fan and personal two, and to my data the very first “fashionable” dive watch you may purchase that did not come through the army (FF) or “technically existed within the catalog” (Submariner), however really did Bought in 1953 was the ocean wolf. However I similar to Seikos extra.
I feel the primary mannequin to obtain Seiko’s personal design language stays the most effective they ever made: 6215-7000 from 1966-68. The weird factor is that Seiko themselves appear to hate it and wish to fake it by no means existed.