Louis Vuitton continues to surprise the watch world with a new Metièrs d’Art tourbillon with a magnificent plique-à-jour dial. Introducing the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçoin de Genève Pique-à-jour.
Press release information with Comment in italics.
New: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçoin de Genève Plique-à-jour
The recommended retail price for the The Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçoin de Genève Plique-à-jour costs CHF 297,000 inclusive taxes. The watch is not a limited edition, but due to the complexity of the dial, movement and even the case, production is extremely limited.
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It’s certainly no surprise that we’ve become big fans of Louis Vuitton, even if it’s only been relatively recently. Especially after Jean Arnauld took over the management, we see that this extraordinary young man has achieved a lot for the company and the industry. Of course, he has the enormous financial support of his family, but more importantly, he has a very high level of passion for watchmaking. Much higher than what we’ve seen from brand CEOs recently. Truly admirable!
His work is visible to everyone. The redesign of the drum is a great achievement in maintaining the DNA of the line while still breathing new life into the design. The collaborations with independent watchmakers with the introduction of the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chiming Chronograph Clock is another interesting route. Although the concept is not entirely new, having been pioneered decades ago by Goldpfiel and again by Harry Winston’s Opus projects, it is nonetheless a new beginning for this type of collaboration. And the Rexhep watch is just the first of many. The commitment to watchmaking is also clear from the fact that the two brands of the same name, Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth, were reintegrated into Louis Vuitton as part of the recent LVMH Watch Week. Both brands lived in the shadow of Bvlgari (also part of the LVMH group) and were now given their own branding and status as independent brands. And of course the LV Watch Prize, won for the first time by none other than our friend Raúl Pages.
This latest Voyager Flying Tourbillon is another example of this. The collection is certainly not new. The Voyager Flying Tourbillon has been in the LV collection for some time. The shape of the case is very special and very interesting. And all of the execution of the outstanding flying tourbillon movement is done in-house at La Fabrique du Temps. The Poinçoin de Genève version is not new either. This was previously presented as Voyager Flying Tourbillon, Hallmark of Geneva.
Of course, this novelty has the same hand-wound caliber. LV104, which is manufactured and finished in-house at La Fabrique du Temps and bears the prestigious Geneva Seal. But the addition of a The Plique-à-Jour enamel dial is certainly a wonderful masterpiece.
The watch retains the DNA of the Voyager Flying Tourbillon. But with a spectacular and very striking dial, dressed in blue over a white gold grille. The plique-à-jour (French for “letting in daylight”) technique used to create the dial is a challenge.
Light penetrates the transparent or translucent enamel, creating an effect like stained glass. The technique is similar to cloisonné, but uses a temporary backing that is dissolved by acid or rubbed off after the enamel is fired in the kiln. Layers of enamel are applied and baked into the metal grid of the interlocking Vs (for Vuitton, of course). This is done entirely in the studio of La Fabrique des Arts.
From the release photos we received, the watch looks spectacularly gorgeous. And we look forward to being able to see, touch and photograph one of them in person soon.
Publication information
At the intersection of craftsmanship and fine watchmaking, Louis Vuitton brings plique-à-jour enamel into the 21st century. The dial of the Voyager watch transforms into a modern stained glass window, revealing the perfection of a flying tourbillon movement developed at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève seal. A journey into the blue.
Mastering and revitalizing traditional expertise could well be Louis Vuitton’s motto. Since its beginnings, the Maison has placed craftsmanship at the heart of its core virtues. By choosing plique-à-jour enamel – a French word first mentioned in the annals of the 14th century – Louis Vuitton aims to restore the prestige of this rare, complex technique, still used by extremely few artisans in Europe becomes. Although this enameling process is long and very laborious, the transparency, shine and color nuances it offers are unsurpassed. Obtaining this blue gradient took many months of research. To achieve this, the Maison collaborated with several master enamellers in its studio at La Fabrique des Arts.
The dial of the Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour was entirely made in the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton workshop.
A technical and artistic masterpiece
The highly precise plique-à-jour technique, developed by Byzantine craftsmen in the 4th and 5th centuries AD, involves applying enamel in cells without the support of a support. Louis Vuitton chose the ancient, Western “Percé” technique – and the most sophisticated – from the various types of existing plique-à-jour methods.
To bring this miniature stained glass work of art to life, the enameler applied paint to each section using a brush, in keeping with the most traditional technique: capillary action filling. Since the material is not applied directly to the back of the dial but in open cells, the enameler’s movements must be quick and light to ensure that the enamel is distributed evenly and without air pockets. The result on such a surface is a true engineering masterpiece, giving the Voyager watch unprecedented clarity and brightness. The visually striking white gold dial with repeated interlocking Vs for Vuitton showcases a vibrant, luminous and modern reinterpretation of plique-à-jour enamel. This effect is further enhanced by the exquisite coloring of the timepiece and the dimensions of the enamelled surfaces – as shown by the central dial at 12 o’clock, whose lush gradient of three shades of blue varies in saturation and opalescence between ultramarine blue, azure blue and blue-grey.
Aside from the difficulties of obtaining plique-à-jour enamel on a larger surface, the placement of the hand pipe is a testament to Louis Vuitton’s technical mastery. To ensure perfect hand positioning, the tube must be centered and adjusted by hand to the millimeter. The component appears to float quietly in the center of this blue dial and is permanently attached thanks to a careful application of enamel. This achievement is further evidence of the ingenuity and experience of our in-house enamelers.
To achieve this impressive level of transparency, a total of five to six layers of translucent enamel – and the same number of kiln firings – are required. Around 100 hours of work go into each dial.
This fascinating work of art shines in the Voyager’s avant-garde case, which is defined by a circle within a square and whose architecture gives the watch even more radiance. By allowing light to pass through the dial, this type of enamel sets the stage for a chiaroscuro effect that casts infinite nuances on the movement. This virtuoso design is paired with a unique skeleton movement: the hand-wound caliber LV104 from Poinçon de Genève, which is made by hand down to the smallest wheel. Combining the exceptional expertise of plique-à-jour enamel and the mastery of a flying tourbillon movement, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton perfectly captures the essence of haute horlogerie.
A first class mechanism
Developed and designed exclusively at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, this flying tourbillon is the hallmark of the brand’s virtuosity in the field of contemporary haute horlogerie.
Louis Vuitton chose an ethereal and innovative take on watchmaking’s most iconic complication. Over 120 hours of work went into assembling all 168 parts of this caliber, which has an 80-hour power reserve.
The legendary governor’s carriage is shaped like a large V that rotates around itself in a minute. The dynamism of the V, coupled with the vertical positioning of the movement and the plique-à-jour motifs on the dial, give this tourbillon a truly unique personality.
Even more remarkable is that the Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour bears the famous Poinçon de Genève seal. Established in 1886, the Geneva Seal certifies the highest level of manufacturing and finishing of all components necessary to produce a watch. At 9 o’clock the seal appears clearly under the enamelled dial.
Combining supreme craftsmanship, an exceptional mechanical caliber and a Poinçon de Genève seal, the Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour is a true horological masterpiece, imbued with the visionary spirit that has driven Louis Vuitton since its founding in 1854.
Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour specifications
Ref: Q7EBBY
• Caliber LV 104: hand-wound mechanical movement developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
- “Poinçon de Genève” certification visible on the dial of the watch and in the edge of the caseback
- Features: Skeletonized flying tourbillon, hours and minutes, V tourbillon cage that rotates fully in one minute
- 168 components
- 80 hour power reserve
- 21,600 vibrations per hour
- 17 stone case • 950 platinum and 18 K white gold case with polished and brushed surfaces
- 41mm diameter
- 11.68mm thickness
- Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
- Transparent case back
- Water resistant to 50 mDial• Handcrafted plique-à-jour enamel dial crafted in La Fabrique du Temps’ in-house workshop Louis VuittonStrap• Navy calfskin strapClasp• 950 platinum folding clasp
