Frederique Fixed continues its robust collection of releases with the Slimline Perpetual Calendar, this time designed by British watchmaking legend Peter Speake. As soon as once more the model succeeds in making a sophisticated watch user-friendly and concrete.
In watchmaking, timing is every part. For a number of years, the annual publication cycle has centered on the key commerce gala’s that happen in Geneva in spring and autumn. At first of April and the tip of August, the brand new merchandise introduced at Watches and Wonders and Geneva Watch Days, respectively, dominate the headlines for the remainder of the 12 months.
Nonetheless, this does imply that there are specific quiet intervals within the calendar the place a well-timed launch has the chance to garner traction that it will in any other case battle to muster if launched throughout busier seasons. Although January is just not often thought-about a very good month for watch gross sales, it nonetheless affords such a possibility. This 12 months, on the 18th of the primary month, Frédérique Fixed took benefit of the lull and introduced a brand new watch designed by British watchmaking legend Peter Speake.
Speake, maybe finest identified for his affiliation with the model that also bears his married identify (Spake-Marin), has spent the previous few years reaching a large viewers by means of his web site, The Bare Watchmaker, one other venture Educating individuals in regards to the topic of watchmaking started together with his now ex-wife Daniela Marin. Now he brings his particular aptitude for design to Frederique Fixed with the Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture.
First ideas
Maybe it is no shock that Speake has introduced a tasteful nudity to the dial of the Frederique Fixed Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. The closely perforated show reveals lots of the dial-side parts, all of that are manufactured to the excessive requirements that FC calls for for such an necessary piece. Round brushing brings out the brass wheels, which seem to glow in opposition to the matte maniplate end. The straight-lined metal parts kind an angular and aggressive distinction to the nice and cozy gold tones of the brass and the delicate royal blue of the screws.
Whereas there is definitely so much occurring on this design, Speake has given the piece his signature legibility, which is according to Frederique Fixed’s aim of making intricate timepieces which are simple to learn. We lately noticed it with the Frederique Fixed Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, which artfully minimized the visible noise one would anticipate from such a complication (particularly when paired with a tourbillon).
As soon as once more, the intelligent (and understated) use of shade (or, extra precisely, the shortage of it) has resulted in a design that’s extraordinarily pleasing to the attention. The darkish anthracite grey chapter ring surrounding the dial shows the primary hours (12, 3, 6 and 9) and minute markers. Every of the watch’s 4 “sub-dials” is surrounded by its personal overlapping quantity rings, with the quantity rings extending barely past the numbers at 12 and 6 alongside the horizontal entry.
This delicate use of layers helps to tell apart the overlapping representations effectively. At 12 o’clock we will see the model identify (in a easy font that matches the remainder of the typography) curved across the exterior of the month indicator. The months are referred to with an uncommon mixture of two-letter abbreviations (JA, MR, JY and NV for January, March, July and November), intervals (for February, April, June, August, October and December) and intervals (for February, April , June, August, October and December). and the numbers “5” and “9” (representing Could and September). It is bizarre and I personally find it irresistible. It is an amazing instance of kind following perform, and given the restricted canvas Speake needed to work with, it is a good resolution to one thing that would have been problematic had he allowed it.
At 3 o’clock, the date is displayed through a red-tipped hand, the model of which is paying homage to the centrally positioned hour and minute arms. That is mirrored in an similar hand behind the subdial at 9 o’clock, the place you may exactly decide the day of the week. Whereas the odd dates are indicated by numbers and the even dates by dots, there’s sufficient area on the 9 o’clock register for every day of the week to have its personal three-letter abbreviation (in English: Mon, Tue, Wed). , Thu, Fri, Sat and Solar).
The best work of date show? The intercalary year show. The purpose that represents February is definitely a gap. Throughout years one, two and three of the intercalary year cycle, the dot stays white, however throughout a intercalary year it turns crimson, informing the wearer that not solely is the 12 months three hundred and sixty six days, but additionally that February – now highlighted – is the one for it accountable month. This can be a good thing that I do not keep in mind seeing earlier than, however I am going to advocate for wider use sooner or later.
Nonetheless, my favourite of the 4 sub-registers is the one at six o’clock. Right here we’re handled to a gracefully minimalist moon section show. I’m a fan of this indication for 3 aesthetic causes that, in my view, make it very particular. Firstly, I applaud the fashionable design. The controversy over how the moon section complication – certainly one of watchmaking’s most anachronistic, esoteric and arguably outdated options – may ever be used discreetly and in a recent means usually takes place within the beer halls of Switzerland, Germany and in all places else, specializing in the small print of watch design cope with. The round grain of the wheel connects it to the seen wheels of the motion and offers it an nearly brutalist look due to its darkish grey shade.
Secondly, I really like the mixing of blue and gold tones that connects this ingredient of the watch with the remainder of its design. A heat-blued screw on the heart of the moon section disc, surrounded by a brass flange, provides a technical contact to the show whereas guaranteeing it harmonizes chromatically with the remainder of the caliber.
Lastly, I’m very impressed with the cleanliness of this part and its integration. The moon section disk is positioned beneath the chapter ring (including one other layer to the show), which could lead one to imagine that the wheel’s tooth are merely obscured by the chapter ring itself. That would simply have been the case, however the resolution to design the six o’clock sub-dial as a “damaged circle” signifies that it will not be potential to cover the tooth of the seemingly floating wheel. The tooth are clearly positioned below the disc, which isn’t solely elegant but additionally visually interesting to have a look at throughout operation.
Transportable electronics
Frederique Fixed could be very proud (and loudly so) of the wearability of his watches. Even whether it is (if not notably) difficult. This perpetual calendar has a diameter of 42mm and a thickness of simply 12.05mm. This second measurement is vital. As soon as once more, FC has managed to create a watch that’s without delay difficult and cozy, timeless and stylish, informal and stylish. Priced at slightly below $12,000, that is additionally severe worth for cash from a widely known and revered producer, which in fact makes refined watches extra accessible.
TECHNICAL DATA
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT SLIMLINE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Reference: FC-775PS4S6
Motion: Manufacture’s personal computerized caliber FC-775 with perpetual calendar, 26 jewels, 38-hour energy reserve and an working frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Options: Hours, minutes, moon section, date, day, month and intercalary year
Case: 42mm × 12.05mm chrome steel, waterproof to 30 meters
Select: Openwork grey dial with matte end, skeleton, printed luminous indices, white and polished arms with luminous therapy and a moon section indicator with luminous therapy
Belt: Grey nylon strap with tone-on-tone stitching and folding clasp
Value: $11,995
Availability: Now accessible. Restricted to 135 items.
