Taking a look at this clock, you would possibly suppose that somebody opened a picket drawer within the attic of a venerable manufacturing facility, discovered a dusty field, and opened it to disclose a well-preserved clock from the late Thirties. A consultant of the model’s heritage, which ought to kind the idea for a brand new version. Nevertheless, we’re speaking about Raymond Weil, a model based in 1976 that 1) has by no means made watches like this and a pair of) has by no means actually been thought-about by watch lovers. However this new Millesime Small Seconds, which shocked the business when it gained the 2023 Problem Watch Prize at GPHG, is on a mission to vary the notion of the model.
Regardless of a troublesome scenario amid a disaster within the watch business, Raymond Weil (1926–2014) determined to start out his personal watch firm in 1976. He was later joined in 1982 by his son-in-law Olivier Bernheim to create what stays right this moment, a household enterprise led by Elie Bernheim, the third era to run the corporate. Raymond Weil initially specialised in inexpensive luxurious watches, largely powered by quartz actions, however in recent times has developed to focus an increasing number of on mechanical fashions such because the Freelancer assortment.
So what about Raymond Weil’s present Millesime assortment? With this, the model declares that it desires to pay “A tribute to the wealthy heritage and traditions of watchmaking, whereas additionally paying homage to the simplicity of refined design“. The identify itself, classic, is the French phrase for classic. The intentions are clear. However what’s actually stunning is that this watch assortment is only a mode train, an announcement to create a watch that is retro in fashion with out truly being vintage-inspired, as it is not based mostly on something present – you consider classic re-editions within the Longines fashion, for instance. The purpose right here was to make the model higher identified and provides it visibility via a special design, even when such a mannequin has by no means existed within the model’s assortment. And one factor needs to be stated: the end result is filled with allure and really interesting.
Raymond Weil’s Millesime assortment consists of 5 references – three fashions with central seconds in salmon, blue or silver (the latter with a gold PVD-coated case) and two watches with small seconds, each photographed right here. They’re all traditional examples of classic design assembly trendy options, a recipe that has confirmed extraordinarily efficient over the past 10/15 years and continues to thrive. The principle distinction is that there was no blueprint clock to function a foundation. The Raymond Weil Millesime was designed from the bottom as much as look cool and retro, which additionally meant that the design group freed themselves from the constraints of respecting an unique watch. So the aim was to attraction to a special, extra skilled viewers and acquire legitimacy. Was the aim achieved? Let’s discover out.
The Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds is constructed round a case that mixes trendy options and retro allure. With a diameter of 39.5mm and a brief size of 46mm, it meets present business requirements and the expectations of most watch lovers. Whereas I’ve lengthy been a proponent of 36mm instances for classic gown watches, I am not the bulk right here, and a sub-40mm case appears to be simply the ticket – an excellent compromise between class, classic attraction and trendy presence . And because it’s simply over 10mm thick, it is nice for each informal and formal events.
The design of the case additionally has lots to supply. There’s nothing generic on this case, regardless of the clear inspiration from the previous. With its flat coin-edge bezel and three-part case, it falls squarely into the so-called Calatrava class. The Millesime Small Seconds is filled with nice particulars, such because the vertically brushed high of the bezel and a mix of polished and satin-finished surfaces on the flanks. The watch is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal, as soon as once more combining trendy practicality with retro allure. The rounded profile of the ends gives a softer contact and the drilled lugs will make strap changers pleased (and I am positive this watch will show extraordinarily versatile). The 50m water resistance is okay, nothing extra.
The spotlight of all watches within the Raymond Weil Millesime assortment is the dial. Classic-inspired but with a sublime trendy contact, vibrant but straightforward to learn, filled with allure and clever in method… Designing a watch face is a posh job, particularly when transitioning from a classic watch to a contemporary reissue. Proportions are essential and stability will not be straightforward to realize. However since RW did not need to respect its personal heritage, it was free to be artistic. And the result’s undoubtedly a gorgeous dial.
The dial, whether or not within the silver or anthracite model, options a minimum of three textures – vertical brushed, easy opaline and concentric grooves on the periphery – which makes it simpler to learn and likewise harmonizes nicely with the ambient mild. There’s additionally a not-so-classic crosshair within the center part. Whereas it’s usually seen on classic watches, right here it’s executed in a contemporary manner, engraved into the dial and rendered in a tone-on-tone fashion quite than printed in a contrasting shade.
The three-stage sector observe on the sting not solely provides depth to the dial, but in addition makes it simpler to learn the time – even when the precision seconds observe on the periphery does not actually make sense on this small seconds model… The design of the small seconds show at 6 o’clock can be neat and their extra central place was nicely balanced by the outer operating rails. All in all, the Raymond Weil Millesime dial is admittedly nice. I might presumably speak concerning the dimension of the Raymond Weil font or the automated point out within the minor seconds, however in my view none of that issues.
The motion that powers this RW is not its most engaging half. There’s nothing incorrect with the caliber RW4251 per se, however we’re speaking a couple of Sellita SW 261. It’s an automated motion made in Switzerland with a 4Hz frequency and 38h energy reserve, with quite minimal ornament. It’s characterised primarily by its reliability and ease of upkeep. The actual spotlight of this watch is its design, not its mechanics.
The Millesime Small Seconds comes normal with a grey or black calfskin strap that closes with a pin buckle. As already talked about, the holes within the lugs and the 20 mm width make it simpler to decide on a barely flashier watch, though the grey strap stands out significantly nicely in opposition to the silver dial.
At 1,950 euros or $1,895The Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds not solely impresses with its design, it’s also a reasonable watch with nice consideration to element and a pleasing really feel. Nevertheless, it’s in a extremely aggressive market, with the Longines Heritage Traditional Sector Dial (2,500 EUR) or the Furlan Marri (1,350 CHF incl. taxes) coming to thoughts first, but in addition extra inexpensive watches such because the Baltic HMS 003 (with an inferior motion, nevertheless). What is for certain is that this well-designed Millesime assortment attracts consideration to the model, and that’s what issues.
Additional data may be discovered at www.raymond-weil.com.
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