It might look like Christmas was simply yesterday, however earlier than you already know it, Watches & Wonders 2024 might be upon us, with the standard flood of latest watches so that you can take pleasure in. However with that in thoughts, I have been considering lots about final yr’s releases that did not get sufficient consideration. It is simple to get caught up in questioning what’s subsequent and neglect in regards to the good issues we have not totally loved but.
I do not know that there’s a watch that embodies this concept higher than the Cartier Tank Louis Yellow Gold Mosaic Dial. Personally, I feel it is one of many coolest new watches of final yr and one thing that may actually stand the check of time.
This watch was launched final yr at Watches & Wonders 2023 alongside three different new Tank Louis fashions, all of which pay homage to the should de Cartier Tanks of the late Seventies and early Nineteen Eighties. This mannequin is manufactured from yellow gold and incorporates a particular mosaic dial manufactured from tiny tiles of rose, yellow and white gold. Nevertheless, there have been additionally extra traditional fashions that mixed a yellow gold case with wealthy inexperienced and burgundy dials, in addition to a rose gold mosaic mannequin. However for my cash, it is this yellow gold mosaic dial that stands out from the gang. And truthfully, it is not likely shut.
Should de Cartier was a kind of second line of extra reasonably priced Tank watches created by Cartier New York to enchantment to the luxurious and vogue market because the quartz disaster hit the world. Keep in mind that on the time, Cartier really consisted of three comparatively unbiased corporations primarily based in Paris, London and New York, every run by a unique scion of the Cartier household and every with its personal character. New York typically and the Should line specifically had a extra adventurous really feel, utilizing extra reasonably priced supplies and actions alongside brilliant colours and patterns.
It is very important notice that this new Tank Louis isn’t instantly impressed by present archive fashions, as is the case with the tanks with a single colour dial. Reasonably, the watch is impressed by the ethos of Should and the spirit of New York on the top of the disco period. Suppose Studio 54 however with a French accent. These new Should-inspired fashions can also be harking back to the look of those watches, however there are not any gold-capped instances or cheaper actions. These are fully-fledged Cartier watches.
This watch is a Tank Louis in a “giant” case, which I’d in all probability describe as a “medium” look ahead to most individuals. It measures 33.7mm x 25.5mm and is simply 6.6mm thick, so it sits very slim on the wrist. The case and buckle are manufactured from strong yellow gold and are connected to a semi-matte grey alligator leather-based strap that goes collectively very well. The watch is powered by the Cartier caliber 1917 MC, a hand-wound motion with a 3 Hz escapement and an influence reserve of 38 hours. Plus, it is tonneau-shaped somewhat than spherical, which is a pleasant little additional for individuals who care.
The true hallmark of the watch is the dial, which is made up of small tiles of white, yellow and rose gold that type a sort of textured gradient from high to backside. One factor to notice: the mosaic sample is identical on all watches – so it is not a state of affairs the place “each dial is exclusive”. This does not hassle me in any respect, particularly because the colour steadiness is very nice, however it’s value realizing.
There’s a complete bunch of issues engraved on the caseback, together with the Cartier brand, a point out of the watch’s mechanical motion, a nod to Swiss manufacturing, the gold hallmarks, and extra. It is all fantastically performed, however that is my solely actual gripe with the watch: I want Cartier had left room for buyer engraving on the again. Few watches do that lately, and there’s a particular tank look ahead to this excellent Watch to buy, engrave and create an heirloom. It isn’t a deal-breaker, however it annoys me.
Particular Cartier watches are, nicely….significantly. Ask nearly any collector who has been round a number of instances and they’ll let you know that uncommon, uncommon Cartier watches are a number of the most fascinating, collectible and satisfying to put on watches on the planet. And I’d agree with them. Few watch manufacturers have been as massive part of well-liked tradition within the twentieth century as Cartier, and few manufacturers have a extra fascinating, convoluted historical past, making them severe collectibles. And in the event you’ve ever worn a Crash or an ideal outdated tank in your wrist, you already know what I am speaking about. These watches are, for lack of a greater phrase, merely particular.
The Mosaic Dial Tank might not have a platinum case or an uncommon bracelet – heck, it is not even a restricted version (manufacturing is proscribed, although, and I’ve a humorous feeling it will not be within the catalog for very lengthy). Nevertheless it has this magic. It is a watch stuffed with creativity that may immediately transport you to a 70s nightclub when the solar hits it excellent and the 3D dial sparkles. Nevertheless, it’s also quiet sufficient you could put on it extra typically than simply on particular evenings. I really love the concept of working round LA with these pants tucked underneath the sleeve of a black hoodie – somewhat enjoyable only for me, the atmosphere be damned.
After which there may be the value. Positive, $13,900 is some huge cash – I will not deny that – however to me this watch nonetheless looks like an absolute discount. For the document, that is solely a $900 markup the identical yellow gold tank with a easy black lacquer dial. Like I stated, a discount.
Particular Cartier watches are costly and there’s no doubt about it. And sometimes the brand new items are restricted to small portions and also you in all probability will not get one anyway (traditional “If you must ask…” state of affairs). The truth that Cartier selected to cost this watch extra according to a regular yellow gold Tank Louis somewhat than a loopy restricted version, and that they determined to make it somewhat simpler to get, isn’t one thing we must always take frivolously .
The yellow gold mosaic dial Tank Louis is finally a extra accessible tackle a “particular” Cartier watch. Nonetheless restricted in manufacturing, it has a little bit of the model’s signature inventive aptitude and is extraordinarily moderately priced in comparison with the remainder of the Tank vary. Right here you will get plenty of watches to your cash, each in your wrist and in a broader sense of assortment. As Watches & Wonders 2024 approaches, I am undoubtedly holding my fingers crossed that Cartier brings us extra watches like this.
For extra details about the Mosaic Dial Tank Louis and different Tank watches, please go to Go to cartier.com
