This text was initially printed within the November/December 2022 challenge of WatchTime print journal.
One of the surprising releases at Watches and Wonders 2022 was undoubtedly the reissue of Vacheron Constantins Jumbo model of the “Triple Two” in 37mm in 18k 3N yellow gold.
Vacheron Constantin’s unique 222 was launched in 1977 to mark the corporate’s 222nd anniversary Maison. The design of the watch marked a turning level within the historical past of the Manufacturingand thus enabled entry to the then revolutionary world of “sporty-chic” luxurious watches for the primary time. Among the many numerous present 222 references, the bigger 37mm diameter 18k 3N gold reference 44018 was chosen for return to the Historiques assortment (appropriately in a 12 months with three twos). For that reason, and particularly at a time when each the trade and collectors nonetheless rely closely on chrome steel watches with built-in bracelets, the extraordinarily uncommon Historiques 222 in yellow gold (Ref. 4200H/222J-B935) now serves as such one once more daring assertion and a fair clearer signal that Vacheron Constantin did not simply comply with a development with the Historiques 222, however as an alternative created some of the admired watches introduced in Geneva this 12 months.
In 1963, Vacheron Constantin launched its first mannequin tailored to the realities of working life: the Turnograph Reference 6782, a reputation derived from the bidirectional rotating bezel with a 15-minute scale. The form of the baton fingers and the geometry of the straight hour markers didn’t go unnoticed, regardless that the mannequin had a comparatively brief lifespan. In 1975 the Maison made a brand new foray into “the sphere of city watches” with the Chronomètre Royal Reference 42001. With its specifically formed case mixed with a rounded octagonal bezel, this primary metal Vacheron Constantin creation with an built-in bracelet opened up new stylistic views for the model. This was confirmed two years later with the 222, designed by Berlin-born Jörg Hysek, whose fashionable type retains Vacheron Constantin’s magnificence and a focus to element. “I wished to design a chic, sporty watch whereas discovering the appropriate stability between these two components to suit into the basic and complex universe of Vacheron Constantin,” mentioned Hysek.
Along with being a brand new mannequin with an built-in bracelet, the 1977 222 launched a useful structure with a flat base topped by a particular fluted bezel. Its monoblock case, by which the motion needed to be closed from above, was waterproof to a depth of 120 meters due to the screwed bezel. Because of its ultra-thin motion (the 1121 was based mostly on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s well-known 920) measuring simply 3.05mm and displaying hour, minute and date shows, the 222 was impressively skinny at 7mm. The stick-shaped fingers and straight hour markers have been just like the reference 6782 Turnograph from 1963 and represented, on the one hand, a restrained and refined aesthetic, however on the opposite, robustness due to the bracelet screwed to the center of the case with giant hexagonal central hyperlinks. Initially launched in a 37mm model nicknamed “Jumbo”, the 222 was later launched in 34mm and 24mm metal, white, yellow gold or two-tone variations, polished or set with treasured stones, however all the time embellished with the Homes The Maltese Cross emblem is positioned in the appropriate nook of the case at 5 o’clock. The 222 remained in restricted version till 1985 (solely round 500 to 700 Jumbos have been made) and is now thought-about one of many founding members of the “sportychic” luxurious watch membership – a class that has had and continues to have a serious affect on watchmaking historical past. Maybe extra importantly, the 222 didn’t try to repeat the octagonal form of the Royal Oak and Nautilus, however fairly set its personal tone.
For 2022, Vacheron Constantin presents a recent re-creation of the 222 “Jumbo” in yellow gold with a diameter of 37 mm. The brand new version of the Historiques assortment stays devoted to the unique mannequin, though with some changes within the pursuits of consolation, aesthetics and elevated reliability. The case, embellished with a Maltese cross emblem at 5 o’clock, has a visual again that reveals the brand new technology in-house caliber 2455/2 with a newly designed oscillating weight and fast date adjustment for this mannequin. With a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it affords each precision and as meticulous workmanship as the unique mannequin. The aesthetic codes of the primary Mannequin 222 have been revered: a gold-colored dial with straight hour markers and baton fingers whose luminescence takes on a greenish hue at night time, a nod to the tritium used on the unique Mannequin 222. The articulation of the bracelet has been redesigned to make sure a extra ergonomic sporting expertise, the closure is considerably higher.
Whereas the 222 is usually seen as a precursor to Vacheron’s extremely profitable Abroad assortment, historical past tells a unique story. In response to a query in 2020, Christian Selmoni, Director of Model and Heritage at Vacheron, was very clear: “We do not actually see the Abroad as an evolution of the 222. The similarities between the 2 watches are the barrel-shaped case and what we name flat desk bezel, however the bracelets and their integration have all the time been very totally different.” Moreover, the 222 was discontinued in 1985 and changed by the 333, which retained the built-in bracelet however as an alternative featured an octagonal case. The Abroad, alternatively, was launched in 1996, leaving an 11-year hole between the 2 fashions. Extra importantly, the satin end of the case (the Abroad has extra polished surfaces than the 222) and bracelet, the considerably extra unique manufacturing numbers of the fashionable 222 and its integration into the Historiques assortment are clear indicators that this one is The mannequin is a heavyweight and never simply due to its precise weight of 205 grams.
Talking of gold, though also known as the “Holy Trinity” of watches, the Royal Oak, Nautilus and 222 fashions modified the posh watch trade perpetually by merely daring to be dearer than comparable gold fashions. The trendy 222 makes an much more essential assertion: At the same time as a strong yellow gold watch, it seems to be extra informal than most chrome steel watches with an built-in bracelet. And it dares to be as luxurious as a contemporary “sporty stylish” watch might be, which means its affect on the notion of treasured metallic watches can’t be underestimated.
What’s extra sensible is that the 222 does not have an adjustable strap or a second hand, and the case affords 50 meters of water resistance – lower than the unique (which additionally had a thinner motion), however greater than sufficient, and it is protected to say that everybody Watch lovers will choose a sapphire crystal caseback on such a watch. Lastly, the comparatively low manufacturing numbers (do not count on three-digit numbers per 12 months) and the extraordinarily profitable response in Geneva imply that this watch is at the moment tougher to search out than a few of its chrome steel options. The 222 is on the market completely within the model’s boutiques. It was delivered to market with a retail worth of $62,500; The present record worth has been adjusted to $69,000.
Study extra about it Vacheron Constantin, click on HereClick on to subscribe to the WatchTime print journal Here.
