Given current fads, it is no shock that Piaget has simply introduced this Polo 79a yellow gold wristwatch that’s basically a re-edition of the unique, with a barely bigger case that echoes the unique’s proportions and an impressively slim motion.
First ideas
The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, arriving shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and the IWC Ingenieur, that are in fact merchandise of Piaget’s sister firms. The brand new Polo follows the identical method, gently updating the aesthetics and putting in a brand new motion however largely retaining the identical design.
So the Polo 79 can’t be praised for its creativity, however it’s nicely applied. Nonetheless, creating a brand new design within the spirit of the unique – specifically geometric shapes, slim and sporty – will surely have made extra of it Attention-grabbing regard.
The Polo 79 is barely bigger than the unique, however considerably thicker because of an automated motion. The unique, nonetheless, was outfitted with the quartz caliber. 7P, an extremely skinny motion that meets the tendencies of the time.
The enlargement makes the brand new Polo appear to be a voluminous model of the unique, which was small and flat in true Eighties fashion. To go well with fashionable tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the sleekness of the unique. That is unlucky, however forgivable, as enough water resistance (the Polo 79 is designed for as much as 50 m) and automated winding wouldn’t be achievable within the dimensions of the unique case.
One other notable side of the Polo 79 is the case development. Whereas the unique’s case was forged in a single piece, the Polo 79’s case is made up of a number of elements, with every polished gadroon being a single piece that slides into place. This enables for extra exact machining of the case, however implies that the boundaries between the case and gadroons are seen up shut.
The Polo 79 might not be artistic, however for probably the most half it is nicely executed. It appears to be like good and feels good. The case feels similar to the unique, though it’s clearly bigger. The case is compact sufficient to convey a classic really feel, and the skinny thickness provides it a sublime profile.
The slim case is because of the extra-thin automated motion inside, which is skillfully executed however options an Etachron regulator that’s misplaced on such an costly watch.
The micro rotor cal. 1200P1
And at 68,500 francs, it’s each comparatively and completely costly. The worth is extra essential as a result of the Polo 79 comes late after the pattern for sports activities watches with built-in bracelets has waned. Had it been early, worth would not have mattered a lot as it will have offered nicely anyway.
It is solely about 5% cheaper than the already costly Vacheron Constantin 222, which has a extra subtle motion high-quality watchmaking Model worth that Piaget at present doesn’t have.
The comparability with the 222 brings up one other level – the seemingly converging methods of the Richemont manufacturers. The Polo 79, 222 and Ingenieur fashions had been every launched a 12 months aside – and arguably too late to actually capitalize on the built-in bracelet fad – and can’t be a coincidence. Whether or not this monitoring of manufacturers at group stage is smart will solely turn out to be obvious in the long term.
A toddler of the Eighties
The unique Polo was launched in 1979 throughout Piaget’s heyday as a maker of ultra-thin and ultra-luxury watches and was an enormous success within the Eighties. Piaget repeated the design endlessly over the next a long time, leading to seemingly numerous variations of the mannequin.
The various designs bearing the Polo title have considerably diminished the mannequin’s enchantment, though the unique stays a particular design, strongly paying homage to an eighties creation, however nonetheless engaging.
The unique Polo ref. 7761 C701 from 1979. Picture – Piaget
Piaget properly selected to reissue the 1979 authentic, barely smaller and that includes quartz. At the moment’s Polo 79 is an effective dimension for the design, measuring 38mm extensive and beneath 7.5mm excessive. The size give it a retro really feel with out being too small, whereas the all-gold development provides it an excellent weight within the hand. By the best way, its dimensions are nearly an identical to these of the Vacheron Constantin 222.
Though the Polo 79 is a skinny watch in each respect, the vertical case sides and lack of a bezel make it seem barely thicker than it’s. The proportions are good for a contemporary sports activities watch, however do not fairly match the acute flatness of the unique.
Though the case retains the design of the unique, it’s constructed utterly otherwise. The classic Polo had a one-piece forged case, whereas as we speak’s mannequin has a case heart with slotted sides to accommodate the polished gadroons.
It’s a pretty advanced development, presumably meant to excellent the end of every part. This method permits every gadroon to be polished individually, whereas on the similar time permitting the case heart to be brushed on its flat surfaces and extremely polished on its bevels.
The case with out gadroons. Picture – Piaget
The multi-part development ends in glorious workmanship, however results in seen boundaries between the housing and gadroons. That is solely noticeable up shut and is a worthwhile compromise for the detailed workmanship of the case, which might not have been the identical with a one-piece development.
As is commonly the case with sports activities watches of this kind, the bracelet is an integral a part of the case – no pun meant. The unique Polo featured an uninterrupted stripe motif that stretched throughout the dial, case and bracelet. In fact, the identical applies to the Polo 79, however just like the case, the bracelet has additionally been modernized.
Every hyperlink suits into the adjoining hyperlink and is secured with screws on the again, an association paying homage to the Chopard Alpine Eagle. The result’s a strap that’s supple sufficient to be comfy however stiff sufficient for the watch to face upright on a desk.
Nonetheless, the bracelet is lacking two issues. One can be unusually massive hyperlinks (for instance, “0.75” or “1.5” hyperlinks) for a greater match, and one other can be a extra subtle clasp with a quick-adjustment mechanism, a helpful characteristic now widespread even within the US Low-cost watches are widespread.
The dial displays the evolution of the case and options the design of the unique, however with bigger palms and a a lot bigger brand. The enlarged palms are helpful for readability causes; For a similar motive, they characteristic a two-tone end of brushing and mirror sharpening. Nonetheless, the symbol under 12 o’clock would most likely be higher displayed in a smaller dimension.
Up shut, the dial reveals a excessive stage of execution. It’s a one-piece stable 18k yellow gold disc with engraved dots for the minute monitor. The sample might be milled earlier than the dial is completed by brushing and printing.
The Polo 79 is powered by caliber. 1200P1, a variant of the working caliber present in a wide range of Piaget watches, from the Polo Skeleton to many Altiplano costume watches (and even a pocket watch). At a powerful 2.35mm thick, the Cal. 1200 was the thinnest automated motion on the planet on the time of its launch in 2010 (a document that has since been damaged by Piaget and different manufacturers).
It’s nonetheless a really, very skinny motion as we speak. As compared, the Audemars Piguet cal. 7121 discovered within the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 is 3.2 mm excessive.
The Cal. 1200 is skinny because of a micro-rotor and a comparatively small barrel, which explains the 44-hour energy reserve. That is quick by fashionable requirements, however acceptable given the slimness of the motion.
The ornament of the motion is typical of Piaget, specifically high-quality industrial ending. The bridges are striped, the screws are blued and the wheels are grained, leading to a lovely aesthetic. Nonetheless, the Etachron regulator index appears cheap in comparison with the remainder of the motion (though this can be as a result of the watch proven is a prototype, because the Caliber 1200 is commonly seen with a unique fashion of regulator).
General, the workmanship and high quality of the motion are glorious. The very best comparisons can be Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC, however not Vacheron Constantin, the principle motive the Polo 79 feels costly in comparison with options.
Ultimate ideas
Particularly, the Polo 79 is nicely executed. Externally, the case, bracelet and dial exhibit a excessive stage of match and end that considerably exceeds that of the unique. Mechanically, the cal. 1200 is typical Piaget – impressively skinny and elegantly constructed. Regardless of its benefits, the Polo 79 is simply too costly, which is made even clearer by the worth of the Vacheron Constantin 222.
Key knowledge and worth
Diameter: 38mm
Top: 7.45mm
Materials: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m
Motion:Cal. 1200P1
Options: hours and minutes
winding: Computerized
frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 44 hours
Belt: 18k yellow gold bracelet
Restricted version: NO
Availability: From September 2024
Worth: 68,500 CHF or 106,000 Singapore {dollars}
For extra info, go to Piaget.com.
Again to high.
